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sokol - Festiwal Górski 2020 w Lądku-Zdroju
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The 25th edition of the Festival will be longer than usual. Get ready for 10 days, 11th – 20th of September 2020!

Author archives:



«Strachu niet»

Dmitry Golovchenko, Eliza Kubarska

In eastern Nepal, in the Kanchenjunga Himal, lies famous for its steep walls Khumbakarna/Jannu (7710 m). Two Russian alpinists, two-time Piolet d’Or winners, Sergey Nilov and Dmitry Golovchenko spent 18 days on the mountain attempting a new route in alpine-style up the unclimbed east face. After heavy snowfall and in anticipation of incoming bad weather, after 13 days of action, the climbers made decision to retreat just below the final summit block, roughly 300 meters from the top. Though they did not reach the summit, Nilov and Golovchenko climbed the east face for the first time in history, reaching a high point of 7410 meters. After crossing the ridge, due to the great difficulties they encountered on their way, Russians decided to climb down by the French route from 1962.

The expedition was part of the film project «The Wall of Shadows» directed by filmmaker (and climber herself) Eliza Kubarska. When the team of Russians crossed the mountain, Eliza, with the help of Pasang Sherpa and Zosia Maruś (from the film crew), set off to meet them on the Yamatari glacier. Dmitry and Eliza were in constant radio contact. The race with time began. The supplies of food that Sergey and Dmitry took with them for a two-week climb were shrinking every day. The worsening weather and poor visibility made it difficult to find a way. The descent changed into a six-day epic.



SPECTRE – To the End of the Earth

Leo Houlding Thursday, 19.09.2019, 19:45, Big Tent

2000 kms, 200+ kgs, 60 days, 3 friends, 1 incredible mountain. The story of Leo’s daring dream to reach the summit of the most remote mountain on Earth; The Spectre, Antarctica.Using powerful kites and skis to travel long distances, with heavy loads at great speed the expedition points the way towards an new age of Antartic mountain exploration.A tale of ambition, adventure, friendship and endeavour. Illustrated with inspirational photography, high impact video, impressive graphics and interactive maps.



Impossible is not forever

Exhibition of photography works by Sergey Glazunov, alpinist, artist, friend, brother, son and husband. Sergey’s life motto was to live happily, to create and to continuously evolve. He grew up in Siberia and with his brother Evgeny created a legendary team completing challenging alpine-style winter ascents. He followed many dreams by picking aesthetic lines from remote peaks in wild Sayan mountains to giant granite walls of Tien Shan. On July 24th 2018, after epic 9-day climb, Sergey and his climbing partner Alexander Gukov completed the legendary line of the North Ridge of Latok I. During descent Sergey tragically stepped into eternity.



Women in climbing and mountaineering – pushing the limits.

Panel discussion about the state and future of female mountain exploration

The history of women in mountaineering and climbing has been marked with names of icons such as Wanda Rutkiewicz, Gerlinde Kaltnebrunner or Lynn Hill. At the same time, women’s accomplishments have always been compared to men’s and women’s quests, rivalries, ambitions as well as sacrifices and life choices have been long discussed, criticised and commented. How do women set up their goals in the mountains? What are their motivations? What are the challenges they face and what is the future of women’s exploration?

 



in memoriam of Tomasz Mackiewicz

Tomek “Czapkins” Mackiewicz was a guest of the Festival five years ago. He was cycling for 3 days, on the way was robbed of the gifts  from the sponsor of his next expedition, but it didn’t disturb his good mood nor prevent him from  trying to hijack the bus with our guests going for a traditional banquet … that was Tomek. Sometimes incomprehensible, at times absent-minded. He stayed on his beloved Nanga Parbat forever. He will be recalled by his wife-Anna Solska-Mackiewicz, climbing partners-Elisabeth Revol, with whom he summited the desired top of Nanga Parbat, and Marek Klonowski.

The meeting will be led by the reporter of TVN- Robert Jałocha, who says about Tomek:

“I like Tomek. I simply do. I remember our meeting at the foot of Nanga Parbat. I remember our conversations and thoughts that followed. After his expedition in 2016, I dreamed that I’d make a documentary about him. Also winter … but it was supposed to be an exceptional winter. The first one in years when he would not go to the Himalayas. When he’d let go. When he would be sitting on the couch with the kids and not on a blue barrel in front of a tent. I even encouraged him to this conversation and such a material. He didn’t agree. He didn’t want to. Maybe he was afraid … It was the only opportunity for such an unique meeting. The next winter Tomek was again on Nanga. He died. When I talk about Tomek these days a very nice phrase often occurs. “But you know what Tomek was like”. I know. He didn’t act! He didn’t pretend to be someone better! He didn’t show himself only from the beautiful side! Even if his life was best reflected by the colours of winter Nanga, he didn’t colour it by force. I do not know why the hell he went to this summit … since he had already got there in his life climbing a long time ago. He was himself and, most importantly, wasn’t ashamed of it! I think that talking about him will be as important as talking with him. I’m glad … that such great people like Ania, Eli and Marek have agreed to this meeting. Today I have no idea whether it will be thrilling, inspiring or maybe, like Tomek used to say, mystical.  I can be sure of only one thing-that it will be true.

During the expedition to Nanga in 2013 Czapkins and Klonu recorded a music video for the Grubson’s song “On the Top”. On Thursday evening Grubson will sing to their video.

Tomasz Mackiewicz-born in 1975, Polish mountaineer. In 2008, together with Marek Klonowski, they made a pioneer, exhausting traverse of Mount Logan for which they received the Kolos award in the category “Feat of the Year”. In 2009, he made a solo ascent of Khan Tengri. In the years 2010-2018 he tried to climb Nanga Parbat in winter seven times. He stood on the summit on January 25, 2018 together with Elisabeth Revol-climbing in the style similar to alpine, they managed to complete the Messner-Eisendle-Tomaseth route. He died during the descent.



 Polish Family Expedition – MAKALU 2018

A two-person family expedition to Makalu (8463 m), Lech and Wojtek, father and son. For Lech it was supposed to be the culmination of 40 years of climbing, for Wojtek- breaking the losing strike – a Taliban attack on Nanga Parbat, an earthquake on Lhotse, for both of them- the first eight-thousander. “Forever Young” Award granted to Lech at this year’s KOLOSY facilitated preparations. Despite commercialism rampart in the mountains nowadays, they managed to keep the sport aspect by climbing without the help of  Sherpas, Wojtek also without supplemental oxygen. When they set off to attack the peak they were the only team on the whole Makalu. The descent put them to a hard test- loss of a headlamp, unplanned bivouac at 8200 m,  weather breakdown which for three days held them up in Camp IV at the altitude of  7600 m. However, the real trouble began in Camp II when the base was very close.

Lech wanted to see if “a man in his late sixties” can climb an eight-thousander, Wojtek’s intention was to summit Makalu in  good style.

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