Dmitry Golovchenko, Eliza Kubarska

In eastern Nepal, in the Kanchenjunga Himal, lies famous for its steep walls Khumbakarna/Jannu (7710 m). Two Russian alpinists, two-time Piolet d’Or winners, Sergey Nilov and Dmitry Golovchenko spent 18 days on the mountain attempting a new route in alpine-style up the unclimbed east face. After heavy snowfall and in anticipation of incoming bad weather, after 13 days of action, the climbers made decision to retreat just below the final summit block, roughly 300 meters from the top. Though they did not reach the summit, Nilov and Golovchenko climbed the east face for the first time in history, reaching a high point of 7410 meters. After crossing the ridge, due to the great difficulties they encountered on their way, Russians decided to climb down by the French route from 1962.

The expedition was part of the film project «The Wall of Shadows» directed by filmmaker (and climber herself) Eliza Kubarska. When the team of Russians crossed the mountain, Eliza, with the help of Pasang Sherpa and Zosia Maruś (from the film crew), set off to meet them on the Yamatari glacier. Dmitry and Eliza were in constant radio contact. The race with time began. The supplies of food that Sergey and Dmitry took with them for a two-week climb were shrinking every day. The worsening weather and poor visibility made it difficult to find a way. The descent changed into a six-day epic.